Canine Separation Anxiety: How to Spot It, Fix It, and Help Your Dog Stay Calm When You Leave

If your dog screams the house down every time you leave, you are not dealing with a “naughty” dog.
You are dealing with canine separation anxiety.

This is not your dog being dramatic, stubborn, or “too attached”.

It is a stress disorder.

Left untreated, separation anxiety in dogs usually gets worse, not better. The good news: with the right behavior modification plan, most dogs can improve significantly – without guessing, and without hoping it goes away on its own.

This is exactly the type of problem I work on in my online dog training consultations for separation anxiety. If you recognize your dog in what you are about to read, you can get a clear, step-by-step plan instead of trying random tips from the internet.

What Is Canine Separation Anxiety?

Canine separation anxiety is an intense panic response when a dog is left alone or separated from a specific person.

It often shows up as:

• Excessive barking or howling

• Destructive chewing

• Scratching doors and windows

• Trying to escape crates or rooms

This is not “love”, it is not “cute”, and it is not your dog being over-attached in an affectionate way. It is your dog in emotional distress.

Common Triggers and Life Changes

Separation anxiety in dogs is usually linked to changes in the dog’s life, such as:

• Moving to a new home

• A change in routine or working hours

• Loss of an owner or family member

• Rehoming or multiple owners

• Long periods of constant togetherness, then sudden separation

Research suggests that roughly 15–20% of dogs may suffer from some form of separation anxiety (American Kennel Club).

That is a lot of stressed dogs and exhausted owners.

The important part: this is a behavioral problem caused by humans.

If humans helped create it through patterns and habits, humans can also unlearn it through better habits.

Recognizing Separation Anxiety Symptoms in Your Dog

You cannot fix what you refuse to name.
Recognizing separation anxiety symptoms early makes treatment easier and faster.

Core Separation Anxiety Symptoms

Common signs of separation anxiety in dogs include:

• Excessive barking, whining, or howling when left alone

• Pacing around the house, especially near exits

• Destructive behavior around doors, windows, or crates

• Extreme clinginess and shadowing you from room to room

Many dogs also show physical stress signs:

• Drooling or panting without physical exertion

• Self-harm, such as chewing their paws or licking one spot raw

• Trying to escape confinement and injuring themselves in the process

If these behaviors mainly show up when you leave, are gone, or are preparing to leave, you are probably dealing with separation anxiety, not boredom (PetMD).

Behavioral Signs While You Are Gone

What your dog does during your absence tells you a lot about their emotional state.

Typical behavioral signs of separation anxiety during owner absence:

• Incessant barking or whining, often starting as soon as you close the door

• Restless pacing through the house or from room to room

• Scratching at doors and windows, trying to “break out”

• Chewing furniture, door frames, blinds, carpets, or anything near exits

These behaviors come from panic and frustration, not spite.

Your dog is not “getting back at you” for leaving.

They are trying to survive what they experience as a crisis.

Once you understand that, you can stop taking it personally and start working on a proper behavior modification plan.

Pre-Departure Anxiety: The Early Warning Signs

Dogs with separation anxiety usually start stressing out before you actually leave.

Typical pre-departure anxiety indicators:

• Whining, pacing, or panting when you grab keys, shoes, or your bag

• Jumping on you for attention

Your “leaving routine” becomes a trigger:

• Pick up keys → instant stress

• Put on work shoes → instant worry

• Grab your laptop bag → heart rate up

These small signs show you where to start with systematic desensitization and counterconditioning later.

Common Causes and Risk Factors for Separation Anxiety in Dogs

Separation anxiety rarely appears “out of thin air”. There are usually clear causes.

Common Causes

• Loaded Hi’s and Bye’s when you arrive and leave home

• Giving your dog excessive and constant attention

• History of abandonment or multiple rehomings

• Sudden change in schedule or lifestyle (back to office, new job, shift work)

• Major change in the home (divorce, new baby, someone moving out)

• Long periods of constant togetherness (e.g. work from home, recovery from surgery) followed by abrupt separation

Risk Factors

• Dogs that are extremely human-focused and bond very intensely

• Puppies that were never taught how to be calm and alone in small doses

• Dogs that were never properly socialized and lack overall confidence

Any dog can end up with separation anxiety if the circumstances are stressful enough.

Behavior Modification: The Core Treatment for Canine Separation Anxiety

There is no magic pill for canine separation anxiety.

The foundation of treatment is behavior modification.

The Goal

Change your dog’s emotional response to being alone:

From “You are gone, I am dying”

To “You are gone, I know what to do, and I can handle this”.

That means:

• Identifying your dog’s specific triggers

• Working through systematic desensitization to those triggers

• Using counterconditioning techniques to make alone time feel safe and predictable

With my clients, I build a custom behavior modification plan that fits:

• Their schedule

• Their home layout

• Their dog’s temperament and severity of anxiety

The steps are clear, but you need consistency and patience. This is where having a trainer to keep you accountable changes everything.

Systematic Desensitization for Separation Anxiety: How It Works

Systematic desensitization means you break the problem into small, manageable pieces – not throw your dog into the deep end and hope they learn to swim.

In Practice

You:

1. Start with the smallest version of “leaving” your dog can handle without panicking.

2. Repeat that tiny step until your dog truly stays calm.

3. Slowly increase duration or intensity, one small step at a time.

Examples of Desensitization Steps

• Keep your body language boring and neutral when you arrive or leave home.

• Standing up, picking up your keys, and then sitting back down.

• Walking to the door, touching the handle, then returning to the sofa.

• Stepping outside for a few seconds, then returning before your dog escalates.

You are essentially randomizing the events that would previously trigger your dog. This way, they can’t predict or anticipate when you are coming or leaving home.

The protocol is boring, structured, and repetitive – and it works when you do it correctly.

This is the part most owners struggle with alone. They:

• Increase their time away from their dog in increments that are too big and too fast.

• Don’t know how to crate train their dog properly.

• Don’t know how to adjust when the dog regresses

• Accidentally put the dog back into full panic daily

In my online dog training consultations for separation anxiety, I map out the exact steps and adjust the systematic desensitization protocol weekly based on your videos and feedback.

Counterconditioning: Making Alone Time a Positive Experience

Counterconditioning means pairing something your dog dislikes (being alone) with something they genuinely love.

For separation anxiety, that often includes:

• High-value food (stuffed Kongs, long-lasting chews, food puzzles)

• Treats that you leave in their crate to turn it into a “magic box”

• Special toys that only appear during alone time

• Calm background noise your dog finds soothing

The goal:

Your dog starts to see the beginning of alone time as a signal for “this is when the good stuff happens”, instead of “this is when life falls apart.”

Key Rules for Effective Counterconditioning

• The reward must be something your dog truly values, not just “kibble in a bowl”.

• These special rewards should only appear in connection with alone time, not all day.

• The difficulty and duration must match what your dog can handle without going into full blown anxiety.

When you combine counterconditioning with systematic desensitization, your dog forms a new emotional association with your departures.

How to Make My Behavioral Advice Actually Happen in Real Life

A behavior plan is useless if nobody follows it.

To get the maximum impact from any separation anxiety training plan:

• Build a weekly routine you can realistically follow

• Decide in advance which days you will run short training sessions

• Keep rules and expectations consistent across all family members

• Use simple cues and markers so your dog knows what is happening

Engagement helps a lot:

• Use interactive toys and food puzzles

• Run short obedience sessions before you leave

• Give your dog a job and structure, not just “freedom and hope”

In my online dog training consultations, I do not just send you a generic checklist.

I fit the plan into your actual work week, travel schedule, kids, and home life – so you can practically execute it.

Practical Management Strategies While You Work on Training

You still have a life to live while you work through separation anxiety treatment.

Management stops things from getting worse in the meantime.

Practical Management Strategies

• Keep arrivals and departures calm and neutral – no emotional drama at the door

• Use white noise, curtains, and baby gates to reduce visual and sound triggers

Management is not a replacement for training. But it stops your dog from panicking over and over, which makes your training sessions more effective.

Exercise and Mental Stimulation

You cannot fix separation anxiety with exercise alone, but it is a powerful supporting piece.

Good exercise and mental stimulation:

• Burns off excess physical energy

• Burns of excess mental energy

• Lowers overall stress levels

• Gives your dog structure and a clear “job”

Helpful Ideas

• Structured walks, not just random yard time

• Play sessions that involve chasing, tug, or fetch in a controlled way

• Scent games and food puzzles

• Short obedience or trick-training sessions for mental work

A dog that is physically and mentally satisfied is better equipped to handle short periods of alone time without tipping into panic.

Creating a Safe Space and Using Crate Training Correctly

Dogs with separation anxiety do better when they have a safe space, not full run of the house.

This can be:

• A crate

• A small, dog-proofed room

• A gated-off area away from constant traffic

A proper safe space:

• Is quiet and away from busy windows and doors

• Has a comfortable bed, familiar toys, and maybe an item with your scent

• Is associated with rest and calm, not punishment

Crate Training for Separation Anxiety

Crate training will help if it is done correctly:

• Introduce the crate slowly with food and positive associations

• Let your dog enter and exit freely at first

• Only close the door for short periods once your dog is relaxed inside

• Turn that crate into a magic box for your dog

Done right, the crate becomes the central safe zone in your separation anxiety training.

Routines and Departure Rituals: Reducing Uncertainty

Dogs thrive on predictable routines.

Uncertainty feeds anxiety.

Helpful routines for separation anxiety in dogs:

• Regular feeding times

• Predictable walk and play schedules

• A consistent potty schedule

Better Departure Rituals

Your departure rituals should be boring:

• No emotional “goodbye speeches”

• No big hugs and high-pitched reassurance at the door

• Just a short and neutral exit.

When you return, keep it low key.
The more “normal” you make coming and going, the less your dog reacts like each departure is life or death.

Combining Multiple Training Approaches for Best Results

The best results come from combining multiple treatment approaches into one clear plan.

A complete canine separation anxiety training plan usually includes:

• Behavior modification with systematic desensitization

• Counterconditioning to change emotional associations

• Practical management strategies at home

• Physical and mental exercises

• Crate training

• Predictable routines and calm departures and arrivals

This holistic approach addresses both the symptoms and the root causes of separation anxiety. It gives your dog structure, security, and a way to succeed (American Veterinary Medical Association).

This is how I work with my own separation anxiety cases in my online dog training consultations:

When to Consult a Dog Trainer for Separation Anxiety

At some point, you do not need another article.

You need a trainer.

You should consult a dog trainer if:

• Your dog is destroying doors, windows, or crates when left alone

• Your dog is injuring themselves trying to escape

• Your neighbors are complaining about barking or howling

• You have tried to fix it on your own and nothing really improves

A trainer experienced with separation anxiety in dogs can:

• Assess the severity of the problem

• Design a realistic behavior modification plan

• Show you how to run systematic desensitization sessions correctly

• Adjust the plan when life happens and things go sideways

This is exactly what I do in my online dog training consultations for separation anxiety.
We meet via Zoom, review your dog’s behavior, and walk through the step-by-step protocol, so you are not guessing alone (American Veterinary Medical Association).

Prevention Strategies for New and Prospective Dog Owners

Preventing separation anxiety in dogs is always easier than fixing it.

If you are a new or prospective dog owner:

1. Teach Alone Time Early

Start with very short, calm separations, even when your puppy is young. Alone time should be normal, not an emotional shock.

2. Build a Predictable Routine

Regular feeding, potty schedules, walks, and structured rest periods create security and stability.

3. Socialize Properly

Expose your dog to different environments, people, and sounds to build overall confidence.

4. Avoid 24/7 Togetherness

It feels nice now, but it creates a dog that falls apart the moment you must leave.

By gradually teaching your dog that being alone is normal and safe, you dramatically reduce the risk that full-blown canine separation anxiety will ever develop (American Veterinary Medical Association).

Frequently Asked Questions About Dog Separation Anxiety

What are the common signs of separation anxiety in dogs?

Common signs include excessive barking, whining, pacing, drooling, panting, and destructive behavior, especially near doors and windows. Many dogs also show stress when you prepare to leave, such as shadowing you, becoming clingy, or reacting strongly to your keys and shoes.

How can I tell if my dog has separation anxiety or is just bored?

If the worst behavior only happens when your dog is alone and comes with vocalizing, pacing, or panic, you are likely dealing with separation anxiety. Boredom usually looks like milder destruction and stops once you are home and engaging with your dog.

Can separation anxiety in dogs be treated without medication?

Yes. Most cases can be managed successfully with behavior modification, systematic desensitization, counterconditioning, crate training, and consistent routines.

How long does it take to see improvement?

It depends on severity and consistency. Some owners see small improvements in a few weeks; others need several months. The key is following the plan, not skipping steps, and not putting the dog back into full panic every day.

Ready to Stop White-Knuckling Your Dog’s Separation Anxiety?

If this sounds like your life right now, you do not have to just “tough it out”.

I work with dog owners online to diagnose and fix separation anxiety using clear, realistic training plans that fit your schedule and your dog.

Click here to book a FREE online dog training consultation with me and get:

• A structured plan

• Tailored to your specific dog

• Built around your real-world schedule

So you can finally leave the house without your dog – or you – falling apart.

-Marc Windgassen

No Drive… No Joy

The Place Command: The One Dog Training Skill Every Busy Dog Owner Is Missing

If your dog cannot go to a spot and stay there on cue, you are missing one of the most useful obedience commands in dog training.

For busy executives, doctors, founders and high income professionals, the Place command is not a “nice to have”. It is one of the few dog obedience skills that gives you immediate control, calm and focus in your home and office.

This is the command that turns your dog’s chaos into structure.

What Is The Place Command In Dog Training?

In practical terms, the Place command means:

You send your dog to a designated spot

Your dog lies down or settles there

Your dog stays there until you release them

The “place” can be:

A dog bed

A raised cot

A mat, towel or blanket

A specific corner of your office or living room

When you teach the Place command correctly, your dog understands that this is their station. It becomes a mental “off switch” that tells them to relax and stay put.

This is why you will see experienced dog trainers talk about Place as a foundational obedience command, not a trick.

Why Busy Professionals Need The Place Command

You already have a packed schedule. Your dog’s job is not to add more meetings to it.

Without the Place command, most dogs:

Pace around your desk while you are on calls

Wander in and out of the camera frame on Zoom and Teams

Bump your chair, cables and laptop

Jump up on you or whine for attention right when you start talking

That constant background noise drains your focus. You may not notice it until you remove it.

With a clean Place command, you can:

Point to the dog bed and quietly say your cue

Have your dog calmly lying down, out of the way

Focus on your work without wondering what your dog is doing behind you

Same dog. Different rules. Very different workday.

Using The Place Command When Guests Come Over

Dog owners love saying “But my dog is friendly, everyone loves them”.

That is fine when the goal of the visit is to hang out with the dog.

It is not fine when:

You have clients or colleagues over for a serious conversation

Your guests are not dog people or are nervous around dogs

Someone is dressed for an event and does not want paw prints and hair on their clothes

Crating the dog can feel too extreme for some situations. Letting them run the room is the other extreme.

The Place command is the middle ground.

You can:

Send your dog to their mat or bed

Let them calmly watch from a distance

Release them to greet people when you choose, under your rules

The result is simple: you control the environment. Your dog does not.

The Command Does Not Have To Be “Place”

Your dog does not care which word you use. They care that it is consistent.

In my own case, I taught my male Rottweiler, Force, the word “Pillow”.

“Pillow” is his version of the Place command.

When I say “Pillow”:

He comes off my bed

Goes onto his own dog pillow

Lies down and settles for the night

That is all the Place command is:

A clear, simple rule that tells your dog where to be and what to do.

You can use “Place”, “Bed”, “Spot”, “Pillow”, whatever feels natural. The training and structure behind it are what matter.

How The Place Command Improves Your Relationship With Your Dog

Structure is not the opposite of love. It is how you make living with a dog sustainable.

When your dog understands the Place command:

They are not guessing what you want

They are not constantly testing boundaries for attention

They have a clear job in busy moments

That reduces:

Whining

Pacing

Jumping

“In your face” attention seeking

Your dog becomes calmer because you are finally communicating clearly. Your bond improves because both of you can relax.

That is the part most owners underestimate.

Why Most Owners Never Get This Far

The idea of the Place command sounds simple. The execution is where people fall apart.

Common mistakes I see in dog training:

Letting the dog break Place constantly with no consequence

Not proofing the command around real life distractions

Only practicing Place for a few seconds at a time

Mixing it up with random words and inconsistent rules

Then the owner says, “Place doesn’t work for my dog”.

No. It was never really trained.

This is exactly where working with an experienced online dog trainer saves you months of trial and error.

If Your Dog Needed This Since Yesterday…

If you are reading this thinking:

“That is exactly what I need in my home, my office and my life”

then good. That awareness is the first step.

I help busy dog owners all over the U.S. , Canada, and Europe use the Place command to reduce chaotic behavior and build real obedience, through structured online dog training sessions.

We work:

Live, via video

In your real environment

Around your real schedule

👉 Click here to book a FREE 30-minute video consultation with me if your dog needed the Place command since yesterday 🤣

We will look at your dog, your space and your routine, and I will show you what needs to change so your dog has a clear “Place” and you finally get some mental bandwidth back.

-Marc Windgassen

No Drive... No Joy

How to Stop Your Dog from Chewing Everything When You're Gone

Is your dog turning your furniture into a personal chew toy while you're away? If you've ever come home to shredded cushions, gnawed table legs, or destroyed shoes, you’re not alone.

Many dog owners face this frustrating issue. But before you assume your dog is acting out of spite, let’s get one thing clear: It’s not payback. It’s boredom.

Dogs, especially high-energy working breeds, need a job. If you don’t give them one, they’ll create their own—usually in a way you won’t like.

So, how do you stop the destruction? By understanding their needs and providing the right outlets for their energy.

Understanding Why Dogs Chew

Dogs chew for a variety of reasons, but the most common ones include:

• Boredom: When left alone without mental or physical stimulation, dogs look for something to do. Chewing is an easy, self-rewarding activity.

• Anxiety or Stress: Some dogs chew to cope with separation anxiety. Destruction often happens soon after you leave.

• Lack of Exercise: A dog with too much pent-up energy will find a way to release it, and that often means tearing apart your belongings.

• Teething (for Puppies): Young dogs naturally chew to relieve teething pain and explore the world.

If your dog is chewing everything in sight, it’s a sign they aren’t getting enough stimulation. The solution? Drain their energy before you leave.

The 3-Step Plan to Prevent Destructive Chewing

1. Mental Work – Make Them Think

Dogs aren’t just physical creatures—they have active minds that need stimulation. The more they think, the more energy they burn. Before you leave, engage their brain with:

• Obedience Training: Run through basic commands like sit, down, stay, and recall. Keep sessions short but focused.

• Problem-Solving Tasks: Use puzzle toys or hide treats around the house for them to find.

• Marker Training: Reward behaviors with a quick game or praise, reinforcing engagement and focus.

When a dog has to work through a problem or obey a command, they burn mental energy—just like you would after a long meeting or an intense study session.

2. Physical Work – Tug-of-War Over Treats

Once their brain is engaged, it’s time to tire out their body. Many working breeds have a strong drive for physical engagement. Instead of relying solely on treats, use an active game like tug-of-war as a reward.

• Why Tug Works: It builds engagement, satisfies their natural prey drive, and gives them a controlled way to expend energy.

• Short and Effective: A few rounds of intense tug combined with training can drain more energy than a long, slow walk.

• Balance Matters: Combine structured tug games with obedience work to reinforce good behavior.

3. Exhaustion – Brain + Body = KO’d Dog

Once you’ve worked their brain and body, your dog should be tired. A drained dog is a relaxed dog. They’ll be in recovery mode, ready to sleep rather than destroy.

• Compare it to Humans: Imagine leaving a mentally draining meeting and immediately hitting the gym. By the end, all you want is to rest. Dogs experience the same thing when properly exercised.

• Chew-Proofing Tip: Provide appropriate chew toys, so if they do feel the need to chew, they pick the right things.

When you leave after this structured routine, your dog won’t be searching for things to destroy. They’ll be recovering, waiting for you to return.

What Not to Do

Many dog owners try quick fixes that don’t address the root cause. Here’s what doesn’t work:

🚫 Punishing After the Fact: Your dog won’t understand why they’re being scolded hours later. Punishment won’t stop future chewing.

🚫 Relying Solely on Chew Toys: While chew toys are great, they aren’t a solution by themselves. If your dog is still full of energy, a toy won’t stop them from finding other things to chew.

🚫 Crating Without Exercise: A crate can help prevent destruction, but if a dog is crated without being tired first, they’ll just become frustrated and anxious.

Watch This Method in Action!

For a step-by-step demonstration of how to stop your dog from chewing everything while you’re gone, watch my latest YouTube video below.

Final Thoughts

Your dog isn’t trying to make your life difficult. They’re just following their instincts. If they have extra energy and no outlet, they’ll use whatever is available—whether that’s a chew toy or your favorite couch.

By combining mental stimulation, physical work, and exhaustion, you’ll set your dog up for success. Train smarter, not harder. Address the root cause, and you’ll stop destructive chewing before it even starts.

- Marc Windgassen
No Drive… No Joy

#DogTraining #StopChewing #WorkingDogs #BalancedTraining

Your Dog's Health Starts with Proper Nutrition

What you feed your dog today will shape their health for years to come. A poor diet can lead to serious problems, including:

• Weak joints

• Stunted muscle development

• Improper physical growth

• Slower mental development

What’s Wrong with Cheap Kibble?

Many low-quality kibble brands are packed with ingredients that do more harm than good:

• Indigestible fillers that provide no real nutrition

• Unbalanced ingredient ratios that mess with your dog’s system

• Deficiencies in key nutrients like protein and vitamins

• Preservatives and additives that speed up aging

Some of the biggest dog food brands are facing multiple class-action lawsuits because their products have been linked to premature aging, cancer, and even early death.

That’s not my opinion… it’s in the legal records. But I won’t name names because these companies have a habit of going after trainers who speak up.

Why Some Vets Won’t Talk About It

Not all vets are the same. Some genuinely care about your dog’s health. Others push cheap food brands because it brings in extra revenue. If your vet gets defensive when you ask about nutrition, consider that a red flag 🚩.

What Should You Feed Instead?

I’m not here to shame anyone for feeding kibble. Raw feeding isn’t for everyone, and that’s fine. But there are high-quality kibble brands out there... ones with real meat, balanced nutrition, and no garbage fillers. If raw isn’t an option, invest in the best kibble you can afford.

And don’t take my word for it. Research the food you’re giving your dog. Check ingredients. Look up lawsuits. See what independent nutritionists recommend.

I’m not a vet, so if you need expert advice, consult a canine nutritionist or a vet with a specialization in animal nutrition.

Your dog relies on you to make the right choices. What you feed them today will impact their health for life.